After more than ten years of research and development, Aquafil, headquartered in Trento, Italy, is launching the world’s first demonstration plant capable of chemically separating elastic fibres from nylon. This pioneering technology tackles one of the textile industry’s most complex challenges, opening the door to new possibilities in recycling and circularity.

Back in 2013, Aquafil first partnered with Georgia Tech University to explore solutions for recycling mixed fibres – a task long deemed insurmountable. Although the initial patent did not lead to industrial-scale results, the company’s R&D team refused to give up, and their perseverance paid off in 2022 with the filing of a new, refined patent that brought them closer to a long-sought solution.

With the launch of the pilot plant, lab successes have translated into real-world application. For the first time ever, elastanes can be effectively separated from nylon in blended fabrics. This is a game-changer for recycling notoriously difficult textile waste – particularly from sportswear and swimwear, where different fibres are tightly bound and nearly impossible to recover.

For years, these composite textiles have been destined for landfills, despite containing valuable material that could be recycled. Refining and scaling the process to an industrial level to process impactful volumes of material is now the company’s aim. To support this, Aquafil has built a network of strategic partners to secure a steady supply of post-use materials and ensure the development of a robust, efficient recycling supply chain.

The nylon recovered through this process will be regenerated at the Econyl plant, transforming waste into high-quality regenerated nylon ready for new textile applications.

“With this project, Aquafil proves that vision, dedication and innovation can transform the future of our industry,” said Giulio Bonazzi, CEO of Aquafil. “This milestone demonstrates how cutting-edge technology can tackle even the toughest environmental challenges, turning waste into value and advancing the shift to a truly circular economy.”

Aquafil is a pioneer in the circular economy, having developed the Econyl regeneration system to create new products from waste and give life to an endless cycle. The nylon waste is collected in locations all over the world and includes industrial waste as well as products – such as fishing nets and rugs – that have reached the end of their useful life. The waste is processed to obtain caprolactam with the same chemical and performance characteristics as those from fossil sources. The polymers produced from Econyl caprolactam are distributed to the group’s production plants, where they are transformed into yarn for rugs, carpet flooring, and clothing.

Founded in 1965, Aquafil is one of the main producers of nylon in Italy and worldwide. The group is present on three different continents, employing about 2,400 people at 19 production sites located in Italy, Slovenia, United States, China, Croatia, Chile, Thailand, and Japan.

www.aquafil.com