Performance at any cost: Exploring the Secret World of the Infinitely Small conference was held during the Interfilière Paris trade show in July, and offered visitors an insight into why innovation remains important despite the difficult economic context.

The conference also underlined that in today’s society, research into performance cannot be carried out without taking account of sustainable and eco-responsible production.

Fibres and innovation

The debate opened with a focus on defining high-performance fibres. According to Uwe Schmidt (Asahi Kasei), today’s fibre performance now includes various fundamental properties, depending on the fibre type.

“In the case of elastane, performance is defined on the basis of its stretch and recovery capacities which determine the durability of the fabric’s elastic properties. The functionality of a fibre is important and relates to its end-use.”

Marco De Silvestri (Nilit) then took over to discuss whether high-performance fibres are always technical fibres: “It seems to me that performance is not just about technological innovation as we understand it today. Performance is important. But what’s crucial, above all, is satisfying the expectations of clients and end-customers.”

Performance fibres

Ria Stern, Global Marketing and Brand Director, Hyosung Textile Fibers, explained whether performance fibres offer adequate solutions in an increasingly demanding intimates and beachwear market: “Creora Color + dyeable spandex works best with nylon, while creora STEAMSET + spandex works best with polyester. I’m using these examples to show that innovation sometimes involves fibre manufacturing and blending, which can be used to improve a product’s overall consistency.”

Using the first bio-derived fibre by Invista, which was launched at Interfilière Paris, as an example, Arnaud Tandonnet, Global Director for sustainable development, Invista, explained that the new performances are only a starting point. “Clearly the market still requires many responses to satisfy the expectations of endusers, including with regard to our LYCRA brand and this first bio-derived fibre.”

Producing innovations

Marco de Silvestri, European Sales Director for Nilit, reminded the audience that innovating or producing innovations is primarily about fulfilling market demands. “When developing our polymers, a number of different performances, whether inspired by fashion or environmental concerns, can be added. The polymer is capable of receiving various elements.”

“It’s up to us to bring together these different elements to obtain high-performance fibres. Our Breeze fibre, for example, is a modified polymer with cooling properties. This is a key benefit for sportswear. However, Breeze also offers good support, shaping capacities and durability.”

Constant contact

Uwe Schmidt, Managing Director of ASAHI KASEI Spandex Europe, a producer of the Roica DS technical fibre, highlighted the importance of remaining in constant contact with retailers who are closest to the endusers.

“Just a few years ago the knits available on the market would lose their shape and were too transparent. When developing this new fibre three years ago, our objective was to resolve a number of problems that certainly existed in the market at that time. These properties are visible and important to consumers, who can judge for themselves in a garment’s fit or longevity.”

“This fibre is created using the world’s finest microfilaments: 0.45 dtex. This technology that has enabled us to obtain a soft and fresh handle, combined with nylon’s moisture management properties. It’s an ideal fibre for intimates. Brands love this innovation. We’re going to continue in this direction and work on even finer microfilaments.”

Alternative to cotton

Naiara Garcia, Category Manager, Meryl Intimates and Swimwear, Nylstar, said that the company has established contact with brands to gain a better understanding of their requirements.

“Freshness, softness – everyone is looking for high-performance products. That’s what encouraged us to carry out this research in order to offer an alternative to cotton: a fibre that is just as soft, natural and fresh but with enhanced colour-fastness and improved durability. Ongoing and continual innovation is motivated by the fact that research is driven by the market.”

www.interfiliere.com