FASHION INFO September 08 salon

Première Vision /The World’s Premier Fabric ShowTM /

from Tuesday 23 to Friday 26 September 2008.

the spirit of the autumn winter 09_10 season

09_10 colours

autumn winter 09_10 fabrics:

subjective impulsions, chain reactions,

alternative refl ections

a visual image for the season

the spirit of the autumn winter 09_10 season

observing

taking

overturning

attracting

joking

saturating

rebounding

interpreting

to revive a combative confidence

and creative boldness

fearlessly experimenting

flaunting fantasy without guilt

being moved by reckless handles

provoking unusual behaviours

putting aside consensus

eluding codes

intersecting references

shifting aesthetic boundaries

linking technology and an environmental conscience

setting differences ablaze

drawing on fabric and colour as generators of energy

strengthening the positive tensions within the fashion whirlwind

to thrust ourselves into the future

and radiate with optimism

 09_10 colours

Seizing on colour as a power source

to jolt colourful tensions.

Maintaining equal pressure on liveliness and neutrality

and encouraging luminosity.

Heightening intensity, and circulating energy in a positive,

rippling or alternating current.

electric shocks

1_3_5_7_9: deeply coloured darks

contrast in a binary and high-voltage cadence

with subversive and grating brights: 2_4_6_8

fl amboyant resonance

10_11_13_14: volcanic condensations intersect,

in an undulating and explosive harmony,

with voluptuous incandescence: 12 _15_16

silent agitations

17_ 20_ 23: warm and lightened neutrals interplay,

in ambiguously multi-coloured tone-on-tone,

with deliciously tinted suaves: 18_19_21_ 22

autumn winter 09_10 fabrics - SUBJECTIVE IMPULSIONS

Allowing oneself the freedom to be irrational, and fl irting with boundaries. Wandering happily off

into the unruly, and skilfully traipsing into insouciance. Recklessly cultivating strong emotions,

and giving free rein to intuition. Unhesitatingly sweeping away the rules of good conduct, and

refuting the excessively rational and standard. Savouring the moment, the better to banish

normality, and expressing oneself with all one’s singularities boldly in the light of day.

moving

Growing dizzy with speed, to develop agile fabrics to shadow the body’s liveliest gestures. Consuming crepe without moderation.

Re-warming the fl uidity of silky knits and weaves. Enlivening masculine suitings. Creating high-performance and lightweight

technical fabrics for protective, weightless outerwear. Pouncing on speed in decorations, designing energy and fl irting with

giddiness.

dissolute

Diving into misty, polychromatic dreams. Disturbing, troubling and diluting, all in colour. Hazily tinting deeply pigmented shetlands,

vigoureux and chinés. Sketching out a shimmering imprecision in wovens, prints and jacquards. Pulverising colour, spray-painting

and shattering motifs, or revealing them through tinged shadows. Wavering between splotchy fl uctuations and fl oral ramblings.

unruly

Throwing off the shackles of uniformity. Overturning structures, disorganising textures with tangled embroideries and laces, with

boiled and snarled wools. Upsetting the regularity of textures and decorations, emphasising the haphazard aspect of marbled,

moiré, cloqué and fi gured fabrics. Rediscovering the effervescence of instinctive lines, and exploiting the impulsive nature of

graphics. Giving birth to spontaneously chaotic patterns, to anarchically ordered motifs.

expressive

Enjoying oneself in total disregard of aesthetic convention to fl aunt and bring one’s difference to the fore, without taking oneself

seriously. Choosing highly personal, extroverted means of expression. Pushing the boundaries of fantasy, through tweeds and

colour wovens with eccentric colourways, through decadent laces and jacquards.

comforting

Yielding to the temptation of a gently naughty softness. Tenderising cottony corduroys and caressing moleskins. Generously

brushing and warming up denims, twills or casual broken twills to make them hairier. Choosing the cosy nobility of woolly silks

and downy knits. Vigorously brushing wool, alpaca and mohair broadcloths. Flirting with hairiness through irregular bouclé yarns,

abundantly fl eecy furs. Adopting the familiar skins of cats, goats and sheep, or the wilder ones of wolves, foxes and bears, in

affectionate plush.

autumn winter 09_10 fabrics - CHAIN REACTIONS

Relying on knowledge, and taking simultaneous trajectories. Initiating unusual launches to

bounce back with creative mechanisms, and project oneself into a radiant future. Exploiting

interdependent chain sequences, playing with identifying visual markers and cultural

interferences to compose poetic inventories. Moving forward in time, imagining sensitive and

concrete answers to create new connections.

unsuspecting rigour

Structuring with a delicate and mechanical regularity. Contrasting the rigour of constructions with the suppleness of behaviours,

through silky, cottony or technical reps, ottomans and ribs. Shifting volumes in featherweights. Building surfaces that are textured,

sculpturally pleated, markedly stamped, or roundly quilted.

signs of use

Telling the story of the passage of time and a fabric’s function through surfaces. Elaborating successive, emerised, washed-out,

patinated, aged and partial fi nishings on solid bases. Perfecting the sturdy sensation of robustness and inalterability in leathers

and fabrics. Elaborating work weaves, cavalry twills, pea-coat broadcloths and military felts in intense plains or beige, khaki and

burnt chinés

recoded codes

Decrypting visual symbols that indicate social status. Rethinking identifying emblems by drawing free inspiration from seals,

escutcheons, Irish Aran knits, tartans or club stripes. Disordering colour codes, moving away from conventional scales,

manipulating fabrics to take these traditional designs into the present. Playing with stretch, natural-synthetic, wool-linen and woolcotton

blends. Lending motion to bases, accentuating washes, feltings and contradictory twists.

inventive inventory

Collecting, assembling, accumulating without preconception, without thought to time or cultural boundaries, to compose a

curiously inspiring library. Enriching one’s decorative repertory with literary, pictorial or digital references. Classifying, unclassifying,

and picking through this inventory: bits of illustrations, calligraphic elements, folklore details, typographical snippets...creating the

illusion of systematic repetition, with deceptively identical patterns.

autumn winter 09_10 fabrics - ALTERNATIVE REFLECTIONS

Linking sense to reason, approach to intuition, and joining in a forward-thinking approach.

Being open to the most daring initiatives, making consciously examined choices, and lasting

commitments. Going beyond the weight of the present and its constraints to project oneself into

a positive outlook. Ambitiously anticipating, to invent a better world.

round & square

Studying a pure and generous design. Allying preciousness and suppleness in patterns and in fabrics. Developing a user-friendly

solidity, with massive and softened cottons, fl exible double faces, and mouldable silks. Playing on the ambiguities between knits

and wovens through cosy broadcloths, puffed up knits and extra-dense milanos.

Exacerbating the malleability of materials, trying to reach the plasticity of skin, drawing inspiration from latex and silicone, either

synthetic or in coatings. Creating silhouettes with supple contours. Moving away from rigidity, and rounding off sharp edges in

decoration too. Softening geometry, structuring in arabesque, and favouring the curvilinear.

formal & alternative

Zeroing in on ideal behaviour, by adjusting weights, textures and fi nishings. Lending hold without stiffness, fl exibility without

limpness. Seeking a non-slippery fl uidity, a lively stability. Mixing wool and viscose, cotton and silk, making synthetics dense, and

carefully dosing stretch to obtain docile behaviours. Elaborating suitings, knits and silks particularly adapted to structuring and

folding. Favouring asymmetry and plays on proportions, to sketch out an adroit formal wardrobe.

matt & luminous

Absorbing shine. Attenuating the brightness of silks, fi ne wools and artifi cial fi bres through fi nishings. Favouring moderate lustre,

delicate patinas, unpolished aspects. Emerising, enzyming, laundering and reducing shine, without toning down luminosity, by

revealing intensely coloured matt surfaces.

nature & factice

Interpreting and transposing nature, drawing on what nature evokes, rather remaining true to it. Drawing cellular inspiration

from microscopic examinations of vegetation, wood, leaves and mushrooms for sensitive interpretations in jacquards, prints,

embroideries and lace. Idealising rusticity. Exalting and magnifying irregular aspects through resolutely subtle handles. Intersecting

animal and vegetal fi bres and fi laments, and taming tweeds. Elaborating suave and warm knits and wovens inhabited by visible

slubs.

sustainable & active

Seeking a balance between individual well-being and a respect for the environment. Choosing the cleanest possible fi bres,

dyeing processes and manufacturing cycles. Aspiring to a harmony between sustainable development, healthy lifestyles and a

fashion dynamic. Integrating sports into everyday, developing elegant functional clothing. Broadening the fi eld of applications for

anti-bacterials, climatics and breathable water-resistance to include more widely used fabrics. Bringing forth a healthy, highperformance

and appealing minimalism.

_ a visual image for the season

An image with multiple expressions and sources, for a season that generates energy and creative

dynamism. A season marked by an overwhelmingly moving generosity and a whirling optimism

running between experimentation and personal affi rmation. An autumn winter 0910 season

where fashion is radiant with optimism.