Premiere Vision September 17-19^th opened in a market atmosphere becoming more positive as each trade fair opens, buoyed up by forecasters.  This was reflected in general attitudes of the professional visitors there in greater numbers, always more sceptical, but nevertheless inspired by the  current offer. Most were interested in the level of ingenuity and technical expertise revealed in the colours, knits and blends for Autumn/Winter 2014/15.  There is still great interest in knit developments, helped by the Knitwear Solutions area and a focus on men’s knitwear, presenting new approaches in garment form, highly visible at the entrance of the show for the third time.

Elsewhere jersey fabrics for winter echoed the theme of cosiness and rich comfort which pervaded all areas. As seen at the yarn shows softness, drape and a more fancy approach held the ring. Trimmings including beading and shiny yarns , lace and braiding emphasised the dressed up look always with a soft, cosy look.

There were several new developments announced at PV. Tencel is emphasising the ‘natural connection’ between cotton and Tencel,  in a new marketing initiative.   A new branding of Cotton & Tencel is offered to its partners. Tencel and long staple cotton offers an improved handle, moisture management and sheen.  In addition it is billed as a solution to a perceived potential shortage of  long staple cotton.

 High-quality knitted fabrics can be created from TENCEL® LF and cotton with a blend of 50/50 per cent Tencel. The dye affinity of both fibres is compatible so blends have an evenly dyed appearance. Another asset is the ability to mercerize TENCEL® LF  and, says Lenzing, of all the cellulosic fibres, the handle of TENCEL® LF is closest to cotton. This allows fabrics to be produced with the look and feel of cotton. Cotton with as little as 30% Tencel benefits from the blend by enhancing moisture management, handle and sheen.

Sinterama, the present owners of NewLife have created  a new division called Saluzzo yarns to handle  the high profile recycled polyester fibre. NewLife is becoming more sophisticated, with a new impressive microfibre version for knitting with cotton –like handle and soft, airy bulk.  

Knitted linen is now an accepted part of the repertoire of the fibre.  CELC Masters of Linen showed versions ranging from diaphanous knits to chunky, on trend cables asymmetrical patterns, draping and unusual finishes with Turkish knitters showing jewel coloured semi transparent pure linen garments.

Jacquards were popular in all fabric types:  in geometric shapes, giving a depth of design and pattern which mimics the 3D effects achieved by quilting,  embroidery and bonding one fabric to another, or double faces with one side using performance yarns. Drape and stretch, softness and fluidity were the features most prized for lightweight knitted fabrics, contrasted with   high fashion parallel mood for industrialised heavier knits, often laminated, coated or made more rigid for outerwear.

Sport knits with  performance have hit the street.   Fashion fabrics possessing the same attributes of moisture management, stretch and water repellence designed for reliable use outdoors are now being used for city cycling and business wear as well as leisure. Increasingly big name designers search for interesting surfaces, substantial weights and the play of matte and shine, light and shade, lightness and weight to make a particular effect which is found in techno fabrics. Producers such as Schoeller are responding to this, by incorporating performance fabrics or sports inspired designs in their fashion collections. Coolmax and Outlast,  and other branded performance fibres are used and waddings are superlight, incorporated into parkas, anoraks and hoodies in knit.

Vintage is still around but the move is to transform the archives into something new, young and fresh, where unusual colour combos are used.  Knitwear was teamed with popular sports jackets, whether fine knit Merino or a chunky Fairisle.

CELC/ Masters of  Linen announced the Observatoire des Fibres Liberienne ( Bast Fibre Authority),  with a European Flax label  set up in order  to test identify  and differentiate bast fibres, linen hemp and ramie, to prevent passing off.  Linen is promoted heavily as a four season fibre, with knitted linen making a strong showing in many collections, for circular and flat knitting . Coated and waxed linen fabrics, finishes like brushing, coatings and crease resistance, as well as stretch or the combination of the most natural looking linen fibre with metallised yarn.

Wool was used extensively for winter knits, from fine, gauzy looks to more substantial weights. The vogue for volume continues, with fluffy, airy, blown up yarns making for big, soft knitted fabrics for jackets and coatings.  Micro designs, small dots and geometrics are knitted for fine jerseys for shirts, tops and printing is often seen overlaid on jacquard designs. Double face fabrics are still all the rage, and various weights and constructions are bonded together for outerwear.

France Maille members, all with long expertise show a focus on performance as well as design. Bel Maille’s heavy emerised and milled fabrics came in  wool mixes, mohair angora and cashmere, including jerseys jacquards and ribs and lace effects in unusual colour combinations, raspberry, gold and turquoise.  With bacteriostatic thermo regulation, technical features are added to their fashion offer. Billon Crea’lys, a vertical group, knitting dyeing and printing, included jersey piqué Rachel knits and fancy laces and crochets. Bugis came with knitted fabric and jersey loop fleece and double knits with interlock double face using a variety of natural fibres such as cotton, organics, microfibres, wool and bamboo. Compagnie des Cotons featured a variety of ribs, interlocks, strip and plain jersey printed coordinates. Fancy solids, with a handmade look, crepe viscose and cotton sporting large florals and dense geometrics were displayed in orange and black, white and grey, and impressionistic prints with watercolour effects. Deveaux Maille  were directional in their approach,  with plated jerseys, plains, prints and  texture like bouclettes. Henitex International  cotton jersey were heavy with elastance.  Pale jerseys were semi transparent at Euromaglia, with flecks and marls of white in pale blue and pink lightweight fabrics.  

Many colours for winter were light and pastel but usually in textured or marled versions. Darker shades came  in sophisticated combinations, emphasising designs like geometrics, florals and micro effects.