Filo 62 opened at a good pace, packing into two days a wealth of interesting development, including introducing yarn-based products which will reflect the Green issues which are Filo’s chosen USP.   Filo Green is focused on the European project Regio GreenTex, designed to strengthen the supply chain for textile circularity. The well organised approach to the area’s goals included a group of visitors from Europe, Turkey, South Korea and China and links arranged to Biella. 

Classy startups and eco news 

 C.L.A.S.S the international Eco hub provides a platform for visitors to exchange ideas and expectations. Founder Giusi Bettoni introduced news about developments, also moderating discussions, part of Filo’s Sustainability A-Z project. Brewed Protein fibre by Spiber is moving forward, creating environmentally friendly materials from their microbial fermentation process. producing sustainable textiles from renewable feed. Such systems are gaining impetus and sophistication. 

Innuance scalable dyeing technology uses edible colours GB18401 to make a complete colour palette, cutting down instances of ingesting unsafe chemicals etc.  Ephea Aura by SQIM involving mycelium from mushrooms making low value feedstocks to transform into luxurious substitutes for animal leather and synthetics. 

Dialoghi di Confronto - Discussion time

Now a regular event, for chosen participants to talk about and discuss their work, chief among these this year was discussion of Lenzing ‘s Glacial Threads: From Forests to Future Textiles that Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulose for the textile and nonwovens industries, has created to contribute to sustainable protection of glaciers to help ‘inspiring collective action and a circular economy’. Melting glaciers are protected by Geotextiles but the nonwovens used are made of fossil -based fibre. Nonwovens made from Cellulosic Lenzing fibres are biodegradable and can be completely recycled, is the wider message.

European linen discussed the game-changer, which sets linen on a different trajectory. Linen is increasingly regarded as a fabric which can be for all seasons, due to blends, combinations and the knowledge of the consumer that linen and hemp ticks the boxes on many areas of circularity in manufacture. 

Schneider group and Marzotto Group the powerful Italian duo, discussed the need and possibilities for a traceable and transparent wool supply chain, wool finding an important and growing niche in present mass fabrication. 

Filo regularly presents Gianni Bologna’s predictions before the show in part of its round the year e-Filo development.

Interesting developments

Davifil offers yarn now made from renewable raw materials. Filatura C4 continuous evolution in knitting yarns and more pure wool for summer. Some companies reported a rise in interest for furniture yarns. Where heavier duty yarns with eco credentials and longevity are required, Baroni Filati.

Polat Corporation and others reported serious research on colour and dyes as key. Colours include lavender, nuanced shades with brown and sand shades, and brighter pinks and orange tones. Iafil reported decisions to hold a large range of coloured stock to respond to demand. 

Exhibitors were leaning towards unashamed luxury complementing the sustainability of Green products. Tecnoseta is a startup company in Rome making 100 per cent reconstructed silk. 

Filatural Pettinata Luisa 1966 made the point that customers are looking for higher quality as well as Green credentials. These require considerable effort. Textile waste garments involve cutting rooms and mechanical recycling at Polat recycled yarns.  Karadag Iplik Turke showed regenerated yarns at Filo for the first time. ZDHC chemical company advise how to work with chemicals in a Green way and certify the result.

Linen and hemp developments 

 Hemp is now back in fashion thanks to initiatives such as that of Prototipo Studio, which promotes and coordinates an experimental spinning process of 100% Italian hemp. Hemp for textile use has an ancient tradition in Italy, cultivation and use were abandoned for a long period. It is popular as a concept.

New elasticised linen was shown, developed by Elasten after continuous research led to three patents for elasticized linen, hemp and ramie explained Paolo Benelli, owner of Elasten, 

After a busy two-day fair, Paolo Monfermoso Managing Director of Filo said that despite existing international market slowdown, the show had been successful and attendance good. Filo was confirmed to be a reference point for increasing quality and green circularity.

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