The latest issue of Filo was particularly significant as the 60th edition celebrated a confident legacy over the past 30 years, now established at its modern business base Allianz MiCoMilan and greeted a record number of exhibitors and visitors.

The Biella born yarns exhibition has followed a steady and well organised path to the goals Filo had set; emphasis on sustainability and high-quality standards and importantly finding ways to discuss how it could impact the industry and the whole supply chain in a positive way. This careful approach has resulted in more exhibitors and visitors over the past 30 years at Filo, acting at the start of the sustainable story, explaining that it was trying to search for a new balance between fashion and consumption.

Increased involvement

Italian government support via ICE led to a delegation of 41 people from Europe, Far East, South Africa and Turkey. Filo acknowledges the importance of a quality start to the supply chain and the matching of yarn and material. For example, Paolo Monfermoso, Managing Director spoke of the importance of the new involvement of the Cotton Egypt Association.  There are also discussions aimed at clarifying live issues, for example the EU European Green Deal and subsequent strategies.

The best way to celebrate the 60th edition of Filo and its thirty years of activity is making the exhibition even more efficient and in line with the needs of the companies which take part in it

The concept of Dialoghi di Confronti - face to face discussions on particular areas, including Circular Fashion, continues to involve captains of industry in public discussion. This year featuring Dirk Vantyghem, Euratex General Manager, European Apparel and Textile Confederation and Lenzing Commercial Director Johannes Stefan, offering rare opportunities to see and hear leaders in a world of filtered news.

The theme of the 60th edition was a search for a balance between fashion and consumption, placing new material and life cycles at the head of discussions. It introduced the concept of Slow Fibre based on incontesible goals;  Good. Healthy. Clean. Fair. and Durable. Dario Casalini founder of Slow Fibre led on this.

Fashion concepts

Gianni Bologna has been intimately associated with Filo from its outset as concept manager, designer and latterly was responsible for inventing the Creattive Dialogues. He has avoided predicting formal trends as such for some time, but his latest video Alchemy brought out creative proposals to identify major changes and international links ‘the secret common heritage across the world’.

Colour

2025 sees a continuing exploitation of natural colours in subtle tones. Contrasting vibes come from fancy and printed yarns for knitting- Annitex including natural reactive colours, orange, brick, greens. Sustainability by Davifil dates 50 years of activity with sustainable yarns in interesting shades; pale yellow, pink, green mottles, coming full circle. Ongetta silk brightness could claim the longevity of the silk industry with colour dating back 5000 years as designers look to their heritage.

Regeneration

Companies intend to produce less waste with Eco-compatible waste management and re-use. Polat Iplik Tekstil had a range of regenerated fibres and showed traditional plant-derived dyes including mineral shades which have produced several new looks.

Metallic threads disposal from Lurex waste, have led to a proposed transition of metallic threads to 100 percent recycled plastic. Trevira CS is used by Tintoria Sala for flame retardant techno dyes which identify great potential for fabric used in outdoor spaces.

Yarns - fancy and shimmering

Fancy yarns are leading with Innovative texture, being woven and knitted in eye- catching pinks and blacks. Scintillanti yarns by Blade Margil were shimmering, unique and fashionable. Lurex presents colours and designs regularly at Filo, this year with a strong sustainable aspect.

Now it’s Slow Fibre

Slow food began as a way of coping with the consequences of a new vogue for fast food 30 years ago. Moving the concept to textiles Slow Fibre has a manifesto to counteract fast fashion. It has already resulted in companies joining the movement, including Botto Giuseppe.

Technology focus

Companies talk about authenticity, sustainability and natural elements, but it is clear that technology has played a large part in promoting these elements for the new season. Yarns need to respond to demands such as easy care, circularity, transparent processes and ways of making elements simple yet effective and demonstrably so.

Linen is popular with Flax and Jute, in the same boat demonstrating the usefulness of different fibres with similar advantages in appearance, performance and aesthetics. Cotton fibres have also played strong roles this year with the robust variations of plant-based eco fibres being recognised, shown by many exhibitors, and looks set for 2025.

Successful outcomes

The exhibition ended upbeat with colourful and provably sustainable products.

“The best way to celebrate the 60th edition of Filo and its thirty years of activity is making the exhibition even more efficient and in line with the needs of the companies which take part in it,” said Paolo Monfermoso.

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