Karl Mayer, a leading warp knitting machine manufacturer, has put its new JL 65/1 B Fashion machine through test after its technical features have been updated in order to enable the machine to process coarse bourdon cord without any problems.

The Jacquardtronic Lace machine used to produce an attractive outerwear fabric and manufactured by Karl Mayer for this particular application is available in gauges E 18 and E 24 and a working width of 132" + 2" extension for the stenter frame.

Testing

Non-stretch bourdon cord in counts of up to dtex 2,450 was used during the tests carried out at Karl Mayer. According to the manufacturer, even the stretch bourdon cord with a maximum count of dtex 3,250 could be used, since the yarn cross-section narrows as a result of the processing tension. The company’s product developers were assisted by Moulinage du Plouy during the knitting tests.

This French yarn manufacturer provided the bourdon cord, which was made from 100 % non-stretch polyamide. The stretch version combines a core of 16 % elastane with a sheath of 84 % polyamide.

Lace production

The elastane for the stretch ground was produced by Invista. In addition to Lycra and polyamide, every type of commercially available synthetic fibre can be processed on the JL 65/1 B Fashion, enabling different pattern effects, such as two-tone designs, to be produced.

However, the company reports, compared to the production of conventional lace, it is recommended that two separate fabric webs be produced across the working width, because of the high fabric weight. This facilitates processing during finishing in particular.

Flanders lace

At first glance, the lace of the dress appears opulent and hand-made but, on closer inspection, it has a filigree look, especially in the filled-in pattern areas. The style of this baroque design is reminiscent of Flanders lace, the company reports.

A feature of this construction, which is also known as dentelle de binche, is its open, coarse ground combined with finely engraved loopnet structures filling in the flowers and leaves with hatched effects.

The design is based on a combination of rustic nets and delicate mesh constructions, matt and shiny areas, and opaque and transparent effect - all overlaid with a network of bourdon cord, which runs over the design and characterises the look.

www.karlmayer.com