The 16th session of SPINEXPO Shanghai, held at the Shanghai Pudong Expo Centre on 7-9 September 2010, showcased the Autumn/Winter 2011/12 collections of 165 textile mills and textile fibre manufacturers/promoters. Here are more highlights from the collections.

Kabo Fiber

Kabo Fiber (China) puts the focus on colour. Mohair is the key fibre for the season. Products can be top dyed, space dyed or yarn dyed. Multi-colour Lurex effects and multi-colour mohair with nylon for metallic and shiny effects are prevalent. Loop yarns mimic rag rugs. Pailettes are spun into yarns. Mohair roving is touched with metallic for hand knitting.

Mitsubishi Rayon

Mitsubishi Rayon Co. (Japan) introduced Vonnel “H6 Series”, an anti-pilling treatment that is practically pill-free, specially developed of knitwear and all softening processes are carried out during the fibre production. Characteristics include washing durability, reducing the hand-feeling change and has high-shape stabilization performance after machine washing. Elegant lustre and clean colours are achieved by the use of cationic dyes.

Novetex

Novetex (Hong Kong): The trend for creating novelty effects and textures through the yarns continues to grow. An expanded range of novelty yarns shows different looks from dying effects, spinning techniques through to more unusual fibre blends. There is an emphasis on multi-coloured and textural surfaces. Tweeds and marls play a very important role. Yarns are soft, hairy, chunky but light, loftier, lighter, textured, marled, twisted and chunkier.

Playing around with yarns from the stock collection and twisting them in different ways creates new and exciting colour feelings and surface interest. Surface hair created using different hairy fibres is a very important aspect of yarns, from Alpaca through to Angora and Mohair.

The Eco Friendly Collection is inspiring with sustainable yarns and offers exciting solutions to clients looking for environmentally friendly alternatives, such as Organic, Non-mulesed wool, Gostwyck Merino & Australian cotton, which uses 50% less water, reduced pesticides-is 85% contamination free and is very close to Pima with its long fibre.

Soft novelty yarns have been developed with sparkle using Lurex to sequins. Vintage aspects, usually found in cotton, have been developed in cotton/merino blends. ‘Prumin’ a wool/acrylic/poly blend reveals colour changes; yarns are dip dyed for ombre effects. ‘Paulette’ is a 100% extra fine merinos wool, a quality rare to find in fancy yarns. Dehaired angora/cotton/acrylic is lightweight and supersoft

Tweeds are all about multi-colours. ‘Chieftain’ in 100% lambswool works 4 colours together. ‘Kintype’ a lambswool quality twists two colours together, one of which is melange.

‘Essential’ an acrylic with good pilling has the appearance and handle of cashmere. Also of interest was a new development in 100% cotton/merino wool.

A first time exhibitor at SPINEXPO, Panda Enterprises (China) “takes light as a theme and puts it into yarn”, and works with all different types of light: phosphorous, fluorescent, holographic, reflective The company has been a metallic yarn producer for over 50 years.

Products include glitter, hot stamping, foil, metalized fibres and basic metallic effect yarns to more sophisticated technical yarns-soft for hosiery to higher resistance to finishing and dyeing. Innovative developments include silk scouring to remove rigidity from the metallic yarns, denim-stone washes and retro-reflective yarns for security purposes, yarns that reflect light 100% are well suited for night gear for athletes, children’s shoe laces and dog leashes; stainless steel ‘memory’ yarns and holographic yarns. Yarns can be garment dyed, fabric dyed, yarn dyed, acid dyed or reactive dyed. Metalized polyester is their main product. “Starlight” new metallic yarn, ‘Crystal’ a clear nylon yarn can be dyed and pearlized yarns.

Santoni

Santoni, a knitting machine builder with factories in Italy and China is synonymous with Seamless and a careful participant and observer of textile and fashion trends. The Autumn and Winter Collection 2010/11 made on Santoni knitting machines by the combined work of the fashion designer Giovanni Cavagna of Milan and their own Fashion and Technology Department, will show three particular and very innovative product lines:

SM6-RIB2 is a circular seamless machine with dial needles creating rib fabrics for the knitwear market in record production time in the finest gauges combined with versatile knit stitches in precious fine wools like cashmere and superfine merinos..

The open work qualities of the warp knitting seamless wear that combines casual and distinguished chic in futuristic non-run fabric structures for utmost confidence and comfort. Santoni satisfies this growing futuristic demand in seamless warp knits by the traditionally refined Japanese and Italian designers and trend setters of fashion with this very compact innovative machine SWD 6 /2 J

SM8-TR 1 is a single jersey circular seamless machine with a patented system of eyelet/lacy open-work (pointelle) and plated knit structures for both sport and casualwear.

The collection concentrates on greys and warm natural colours enlivened with shades of reddish Burgundies, musk and military greens. Santoni has used various yarns with special attention to the rising demand for finest quality in the higher gauges, such as Cashmere, Cashmere/silk, Super Kid Mohair, Baby Alpaca and Merinos Superfine.

SM9-MF, the most versatile double jersey circular Seamless machine, covers a range from outerwear garments to luxury and superfine lingerie. Mecmor 1800 TJB is the most comprehensive open panel length circular machine, with an extensive range of cut and sew knitwear possibilities up to the finest gauges. SWD 4/2/J  Compact seamless warp knitting machine features seamless garment technology with ladder-proof and open work fabrics.

Stoll

Stoll (Germany) The trend collection this season echoes the urban mood created by garments that are lit by layered optics with contrasting colours similar to light strokes and neon adverts used in cities, referring also to the difference in daylight and nightlight as used in paintings (E. Hopper) and Fotografie. The ecological background and thinking how to use light and resources in general especially as urban life in big cities becomes more important. Light weight garments/ yarns in combine with coarse gg. Stoll knitted with innovative PVA blends to reach this effect, especially for open/see through optics in layer techniques and as inlay yarn. Volume and 3 D effects are key, especially in functional aspects.

Stitch flexibility is managed on 2 machines with 6 different gg optics. The cable was implemented as structure element in many styles , for instance a “degrade cable “. Highlighting colour contrasts by intarsia technology supports the multi-colour usage resembling light beams. In general materials used 100% wool, and 100% cashmere as pure qualities. For contrasts, a cotton nep yarn (neon coloured neps) and PVA blends.

Todd & Duncan

Todd & Duncan (United Kingdom): established 143 years ago, is Europe’s only vertically integrated cashmere yarn manufacturer. Fibre is sourced directly from goats reared in the grasslands of Inner Mongolia, which endure the most extreme climatic conditions that foster the soft under hair-once hand-combed and separated, create the finest cashmere fibre in the world.

The cashmere collection draws inspiration from the work of photographer, Edward Burtynsky and illustrator, Charley Harper, challenging the notion of contrast. The backbone of the palette begins with winter greys, greiges and neutrals. Black and dark Navy are offset by pristine tinted winter whites and silver greys. Camels, ochres, honey and blond tones sit alongside rich browns and rust. Intrigue weaves its way throughout the collection with a new range of fresh, bright reds and yellows. New greens - olives, soft celadon and emerald inject an upbeat look together with dusky bold pinks, plums and purples - with a shot of winter orange.

The Todd & Duncan Cashmere Collection – Autumn/Winter 2011/12 includes:

Cashmere 2/28Nm - 100% Cashmere, available from stock service in 165 solid and melange colours, including 29 new colours for the season.

Eden 2/28Nm – 100% Organic Cashmere Fibre, coloured with GOTS approved dyes. 12 new stock service colours are presented in their own shade card.

Ghost 2/47Nm (R 1/28Nm) – 85% Cashmere / 15% Water Soluble Yarn (R 100% Cashmere). An extremely fine, lightweight woollen spun cashmere available from stock service in 50 colours, including 9 new colours.

Eminence 2/36Nm - 100% Fine Cashmere. A finer count of cashmere to create beautifully light garments. Available in 75 stock service solid and melange colours, including 16 new colours for the season.

Spitfire 2/42Nm - 100% Super Fine Cashmere. A super-fine woollen spun cashmere yarn to produce garments with a season-less quality. Available from stock service in 48 solid and melange colours, including 13 new colours.

Splendour 1/10.5Nm, 1/5.3Nm, 1/3.5Nm, 1/2.6Nm – 100% Cashmere. A lightweight and voluminous yarn available from stock service in 41 solid colours, including 12 new colours, and pivitol for the season.

Legend 2/7Nm, 3/7Nm, 4/7Nm – 100% Cashmere. Reminiscent of the great traditions of luxurious knitwear, where weightless volume and dream-soft handle is key. Available in 24 stock service colours, including 4 new colours.

Leven 2/7Nm – 100% Cashmere. An ultra soft cashmere yarn harnessing the traditional ‘twill’ weave effect that gives tweed its unique characteristics, to create modern sophisticated knitwear. Available in 12 stock service colours.

***Legend and Leven are symbolised by weightless volume and soft handle. Leven combines the classical with the contemporary: an ultra soft cashmere yarn that embraces the traditional ‘tweed weave effect’. Voluminous Legend, which comes in a variety of counts, can be combined with the tweed qualities of Leven, to create garments of classical stature.

Lamaine 1/14Nm, 2/14Nm - 100% Super Fine Geelong Lamb’s Wool, available in a range of 75 colours, of which 36 are stock service. 7 new colours for the season.

The finest quality cashmere is blended with finest quality cotton to create a unique soft and light hand feel that makes these yarns ideal for luxurious leisurewear for both men and women. These three qualities of cashmere cotton are available in 50 stock service colours, including 14 new colours for the season:

Odyssey 2/36Nm - 64% Cashmere / 36% Cotton; Explorer 10/36Nm

- 64% Cashmere / 36% Cotton and Cruise 3/40Nm - 53% Cashmere / 47% Cotton.

Two rich and precious cashmere linen products, available from stock service in 25 colours, including 11 new colours: Calamus 2/40Nm, 4/40Nm, 8/40Nm, 12/40Nm -70% Cashmere / 30% Linen and Calathea 2/32Nm, 4/32Nm, 8/32Nm, 12/32Nm -58% Cashmere / 42% Linen.

New novelties and ‘real fancy’ yarns from TOP LINE (NingBo) Textile Co. (China) take on new appearances with more colours, more contrast. Yarns come from natural, precious fibres and rich natural colours. The loose, soft, light and thin texture, plus mild natural tones, brings an ecological and sumptuous appearance.

Yarns are light, soft-something new. Among the latest innovations: ‘Fox’ mohair in spaced dyed cotton, wool/poly tweeds, ‘Manitu’, a blend of kid mohair/viscose/polyamide, extrafine merinos and very fine mohair, without too much hair. Best seller: ‘Plush’, a brushed angora.

Fluff yarn is made with PRECIOUS MOHAIR sheared from young goats in South Africa, and some with more precious mohair sheared from extra young goats. The yarns, ranging from coarse yarn to high yarn, meet the requirements of different knittings in a wealth of diversified plain and flowery colours. Light, thin, silky hand touch and bright luster reflect the peculiarity of precious mohair fibre.

NATURAL SOFTNESS from fibres made from rabbit hair, ultra thin alpaca wool and ultra thin merino wool as the main materials, together with special spinning methods, and in various colours, enable the yarns to have the appearance of traditional yarns, and also have the deep meaning of flowery yarns.

MODERN FANCY: Loose, soft hand touch and pretty, unique appearances reflect fashions and innovations. Each type of the yarns has its clear features, inspired by nature. The bamboo rings and the color spots look like the spots on the animal furs, and the combination of blended colors and multi colours look like granite.

NEW BASIC: Plain yarns incorporating a wide range of natural raw materials and resilient materials, as well as special processes, show different features such as smooth, clean, shrinkable flannelette felt, etc. They are colourful, soft, and comfortable.

CLASSIC ELEGANCE: exquisite yarns are made with ultra thin merino wool with the addition of metallic glossy elements: glossy sticky yarns, ulltra bright nylon yarns, gold and silver yarns or other bright materials. The contrast between bright and dark colors enables the yarns to show a more stereoscopic feeling. The yarns are delicate and noble, with full shape and thin and silky hand touch.

The blend of various natural and precious materials, such as ultra thin merino wool, long villose cotton, silk and cashmere forms a series of NOBLE yarns. Materials are high-grade natural fibres from animals and plants, with no additional man-made or synthetic fibre.

As the largest woollen spinning companies worldwide today, UPW (Hong Kong) is known for woolen spinning, semi-worsted and fancy spinning, including 100% cashmere and blends with angora and cotton. The company offers extensive colour stock supported ranges in pure cashmere, extra fine merino and blends with cashmere, wool and cotton for knitting machine gauges from 18gg to 1.5 gg. The focus for the Autumn/Winter 2011/12 season is on chunky knits and cashmere blends. New developments include “Newport”, a blend of Alpaca, lambswool, cotton and nylon, and “Paradise”, a blend of cashmere with a touch of Lurex for shine and 100% Cashmere ‘cashmere crochet.

For Autumn/Winter 2011/12 UPW has developed an exciting new collection of soft, light and lofty fancy yarn textures for heavier gauge knitwear, which contrast with new ultra fine qualities for fine gauge. This collection included 34 new yarns.

Always at the forefront of colour trends, UPW developed 5 themes: WINTER GARDEN - A soft, natural beauty of misty colours; CREATIVE X-PLOSION - the excitement of pure creativity; CALL OF THE WILD - A range of heathered melanges, inspired by the landscape; MODERN SCULPTURE - Sophisticated darks and cool urban neutrals with the all-important shimmer o burnished metal and THE DRESSING TABLE - Shades and tints of feminine beauty.

YARNS & COLORS (China): An important return to the knitwear is enriched by a yarn research focused on fur, velvet, chenille and fancy yarns. Menswear is characterized by the fisherman style, but with a gentler hand feel.

The collection includes noble yarns with counts suitable for 16 and 18 gauges. Cashmere blends have an impalpable hand feel. Silk yarns have been enriched by noble animal fibres. Woolen yarns are very light. Invisible yarns play an important role. Fur yarns add a touch of the ‘20s. Chenille yarns for woolen aspects have a light hand feel. Fancy yarns stimulate sensation through colours that are warm and enveloping.

Torqueing is key on merino, alpaca, wool, cotton and cashmere. Stone-washes are done on directly on the yarns: merino, also linen and cotton, so the designer can just knit. Melange effects or uneven looks on knits are key.

Customers can choose from 144 colours and particular attention has been also given to mélange colours through a specific shade card. Many specific yarns have their own colour card. Yarns & Colors is proud to have obtained the Oeko-Tex certification. Great attention has always been given to human health and this important certification ensure that the most common harmful chemicals are not present in any articles.