The 38th edition of Milano Unica in January verified many opinions that the Italian fabric fair is in the ascendant – with MU’s ideas on sustainability via circularity and regeneration echoing the concerns of the moment.

President of MU Alessandro Barberis Canonico declared the quality of proposals and creativity included more space dedicated to womenswear and inclusivity for new generations. Speakers at the opening ceremony mentioned the growing importance of Artificial Intelligence in the B2B context.  

Storytelling

The theme this year was Storytelling, created by superstar Sabata de Sarno of Gucci and sustainability was on the top burner.

MU showcased 2776 samples of sustainable fabrics and accessories produced by 342 exhibitors. ‘These are extraordinarily growing numbers compared to the previous edition, a new record confirming the growing interest in the project.’ A large contingent of international buyers swarmed around the swatch tables.

Filo Yarns which shows a little later in Milan, at MU chose only yarns which qualified for its Filo Flow eco project. 

The colour story

The decorative arts inspired floral themes, as seen at Liberty, geometric shapes with complex and designs with fancy yarns for knits and wovens. Directional swatches were highly colourful and attracted the buyers. 

Vivid colours were based on the hues and textures of coral reefs and exotic fish, rendered in floral appliqués. Spectacular corals inspired highly decorated fabrics; iridescent tulle by Maison Leveque, and the vivid colours of sea anemones and fishes, including purple, fuchsia and green, picked up by Blue-on-Blue sequins, and IIuna Group jacquards.

Specialist sections include Shirt Avenue, Korea and Japan Observatories and the largest, Moda in Fabrics. Idea Biella renowned for top class menswear fabrics, held on to its air of exclusivity and imagination, Italian and British mills dominating, colourful and soft jackets for men and women in high end fabrics with a new vigour. 

Matthew Simpson, Director of William Halstead said they were ‘busy with high quality customer engagement; with a general consensus of getting back to the same level as pre-Covid.

Knitwear trends at Milano Unica  

Knitting in all its permutations is today’s fashion for all seasons, neatly moving from summer to winter using many natural fibres. It was highlighted in the trend sections. Artificial Intelligence - AI - usefulness as a tool for analysis is forming an integral part of design, particularly in knitted manufacture. Milano Unica trend information pointed out that it can   expand the scope of exploring new areas of futuristic design, and manufacturers see a  role for use in markets, to identify targets and to aid the speed of analysis. 

Rescued Jeans  

Public approval internationally of regenerated materials to reduce waste, hold out advantages for knitwear, embroidery and lingerie, where circularity and zero waste are already being stressed. Jeans made from Rescued fabrics are riding high for summer. 

Trends

 Fabrics are full of pattern and exciting juxtapositions.  Ribbed constructions are a season’s favourite for 2025 with tactile surfaces enabling colour experiments and geometric patterns.

Original designs with fancy stitching and wide bouclé jacquard jersey, micro geometric patterns, or zigzag designs echo a more complex approach for individual choices. These were achieved with Interlock, double face or solid-colour slubby knits, embossed knitted fabrics with micro-checks. 

Trans-seasonal knitting

Summer collections included lightweight knitted fabrics some with a terry texture and micro-ribbed jacquard jersey, which could move through to Autumn. More substantial trans-seasonal ideas included fleece mélange, bouclé and mouliné fabrics, some sparkling with Lurex inserts, 

And short- and long-haired fur-like fabrics and embossed suede looks destined move into autumn/ winter. Quilted and padded knitted fabric mixed fabric techniques. Nets and coloured lace, fringes and fancy trimmings formed part of the overall opulence.  

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