New yarns for knits area at Filo
Opinion
Positive Filo 61 embarks on circular economy
Janet Prescott
Exhibiting companies reported highlights of buyers actively seeking out specific exhibitors with the right eco considerations, in this lively targeted show.
11th March 2024
Janet Prescott
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Milan
Filo 61 exhibiting in Milan’s Allianz MiCo in February was the next in line of the year’s look at 2025/26 collections in Europe, the international exhibitors of yarns and fibres, powerful indicators of the state of the industry.
Results for the 61st edition were reported as good, busy, with famous and hard-hitting brands who have taken up the challenge of the fast-changing eco requirements which apply from edition to edition and attract like-minded visitors.
Filo attracted 2,500 visitors, mostly buyers, vindicating its long-term espousing of sustainability and now complete circularity, from yarn to clothing and back again.
Linking creatively
FiloFlow, an area established for Filo’s long running sustainability project, presents eco yarns, fabrics, new ideas and exchanges of points of view at each edition.
Filo makes clear links between exhibitors and visitors by setting up ‘creative dialogues’ this time including Carlo Covini of Lenzing. Filo’s creative director and founder Gianni Bologna also participates in these dialogues, with invaluable regular videos of coming ideas.
Yarns for knitting
Knitting is an increasingly favoured choice for many aspects of fashion, responding to the needs of current conditions and ideas and reflected in the exhibition. Un filo per la maglia (A yarn for knitwear) is now a regular part of the exhibition, responding to the interest for the versatility of knit seen at Luisa 1966 with classic and light fancy yarns for jersey, flat knitting and accessories with five separate certifications.
Suedwolle’s Active Yarn describes setting a new mindset, a new way of looking at eco ideas for wool blends, weaving, flat and circular knitting technology, mixing sustainability and innovation. Advanced spinning techniques using advanced technology for spinning natural fibres, wool blends with biodegradable and traceable fibres.
Certification and traceability
Most companies flagged up their certification. Spoerry 1866, long established specialists in premium yarns offered Pima organic cotton GOTS certified with a wide variation - Ne8/1 to Ne110, recycled organic GOTS GRS wool and linen, core-spun Lycra, cotton with silk or linen as well as blends of Sea Island/vicuna, cashmere or silk. Also, extra fine wool, highly tipped for next season.
Linen Dream Lab reports renewed interest in hemp and linen’s natural eco credentials. Safilin, producers of 100%European flax have relaunched a dry and wet spinning unit in France to aid traceability to every stage of spinning, from selection of fibre to yarn spool.
Innovation
The Lurex company with iridescent, transparent, fluorescent, holographic yarns claims the widest certification range available on the market including OEKOTEX Class 1 and 2 and GRS certifications.
Italian company Marfil offers classic lamé also adopting green policies, expanding its range of GRS sequins, signalled at many Paris designer shows.
New Coatyarn is coated for high-tech resistance to abrasion used in workwear, sports areas and now aimed at knitwear, bags and cases.
Cotonificio Olcese Ferrari have developed a brand-named Echos, to indicate recycled or sustainable fibres.
Cellulosics
Lenzing put forward their luxury sustainable filament solution Tencel Luxe biodegradable, going upmarket with silk and cashmere for accessories including footwear in many guises. Stating that the versatility of cellulosics reaches different sectors underwear, denim, shirts and bed linen, but also carpets and upholstery fabrics and an answer to the demand for plastic-free packaging. Ecovero and cellulosic modal shown by Karsu Textil and many others.
Recycle, regenerate, trace
Aiming for the traceability of the entire supply chain Turkish companies in particular produced elite fibres from regenerated textile waste, using defibrillation processes to recycle and regenerate pre and post-consumer products.
Karadag Recycled Yarn turns textile waste to new yarns, Kale Iplik Turkey 1988 circular knits, flat knits and weaves.
ZDHD, The Roadmap to Zero Programme stands for improved chemical management to advise companies.
Overseas visitors increase
Filo this year saw a delegation made up of 27 international professionals from France, Spain, Portugal, Hungary, Turkey, China, Denmark, Tunisia, South Korea.
This was in addition to co-operation between Filo and the Piedmont Region, facilitating a delegation from Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, the Netherlands, Portugal, and the UK
“Worth underlining is the growth in foreign visitors, since it strengthens a trend that has now been recorded for several editions and also affects exhibitors from abroad,’ said Paolo Monfermoso Filo’s General Manager.
Watch the IR-Reality Show at Filo International Yarns Exhibition…
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