Filo recently launched its September edition in Milan for 2023/24 with a confident air. The stated themes of sustainability and creativity were amply demonstrated during the busy two days in Milan, already set in the core of four pre-show events in Biella, Milan, Prato and Paris, were the product development proposals by Gianni Bologna.

This also showed the strong links in the industry from fibres and textiles to the modernised mills in Biella and beyond, where Filo was conceived and developed. Linking up the chain to guarantee provenance and sustainability has been taken as its core for the past years, with increasing success. FiloFlow was once again the dedicated area for sustainability.

Many more big names attended and more fibre producers among them: CELC linen, Bemberg, Asahi Kasei, Italian Wool Trade Association, Kale Iplik, Lenzing, Linificio e Canapificio Nazionale, Lurex, Schoeller, CLASS the eco pioneers, and finish and dyeing company Finissaggio e Tintoria Ferraris spa.

Targeted certification

A timely emphasis on water and energy conservation prevailed. Certification in general is becoming ever more complex and targeted at particular areas of production, for instance ELS (extra-long staple) e.g. organic Egyptian cotton bended with cashmere at Filmar.

Trends 

Trends for 2023/24 are as much about performance as aesthetics, with a well thought out mix of natural and synthetic origin, many petroleum based fibres labelled as  disposable or recycled.

Quality and innovation

Imaginative yarns at innovators and developers showed design flair, such as Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia, Schoeller, Ilaria,Botto Poala. Wool, cashmere, mohair and linen specialists included silk and also many synthetic blends, including the eco pioneers Tencel and other plant-based developments like Bemberg. Giza cotton 45 and 87, pure Merino, South African mohair or the Cotton for Life initiative, with Zero yarn promising no pilling in 68% linen and cotton blends.

Conversations

Filo pulled together these themes with a series of conversations or Dialogues ‘Dialoghi di Confronto’ including Ornella Bignami, Strategic Partner of  linen CELC  who spoke to companies using linen as a main component, including Safilin and Danzo srl on the use of linen as a main factor in ecological development.

Special mention for knitting

‘Un Filo per la maglia’ was a special area already established with popularity among buyers. Knowledgeable and eco sustainable processes suitable for knitting and hosiery as well as weaving formed part of the eco offer, as at Filmar, while Zegna Baruffa renowned for top of the range knitwear yarns was ever keen to emphasise performance and further advances for instance in ease of care.

Performance focus

Performance yarns stressed reduced environmental impact. The highly decorative elements already a feature of post pandemic fashion are set to continue with glossy yarns containing silk, naturally dyed yarns with a bright sheen, and a continued lust after gold, silver, metallic and coppery tones often with a background of ecological impact. Novelty yarns like bouclés, frises, slubs and gimps came from a variety of silk, wool and cotton blends, the latter used for ornamental trim, twisted or braided, some covered in beads or spangles and inevitably using artificial elements but often recycled.

Fine and light

Spinners are aiming for fine and light yarns with high standards of performance, exemplified by Egyptian cotton blended with very fine cashmere by Filmar, producing a natural yarn suitable enough for very fine knitting.

Positivity

The 58th edition of Filo closed with positive results for the show. Buyers from Europe, Africa, the Middle East and India, Israel, Palestine were invited, and an exhibition curated by Elisabetta Invernici ‘Estetica 70’, featuring designers working in the 1970s proved popular. ‘Designing textile’s future also means protecting its cultural heritage’, are the prescient words of Paolo Monfermoso, Managing Director of Filo.

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