2023 seems to be the year that the major European textile fairs have reviewed the way exhibitions are organised. Milano Unica emphasised renewal said President Alessandro Barberis Canonico with a strong commitment to improvement, looking at the top end of manufacturing and sustainability, high end textiles and accessories. It was backed up with a sophisticated IT system with many layers of available information including e-MilanoUnica Connect to maximise the internationalisation of Italian companies. 

The surprise was the addition of AI to the mix by which participants could visit the show through the Metaverse a 3D space created for MU for individuals to move share and interact as if physically present. The MU metaverse ‘emotional rooms’ might have looked gimmicky, but the concept definitely took the attention of real and remote viewers in the Creative Sustainability area.

MU calls for trade to come together 

Ercole Botto Poala, President of Confidustria Moda, stressed the importance of the industry coming together immediately on sustainability and the circular economy, before the EU and other bodies drew up their legislation on the matter, to make their voices were heard, not to be passive recipients. 

There is popular acceptance of buy less, buy better, providing fabrics which can be proved to be sustainable, traceable and ultimately disposable, proving the best value in the long run, and fulfilling requirements of sustainability.

Eco Pioneer CLASS founder Giusy Bettoni told us: “Now is the time to make a difference by transparently sharing information on materials, technologies, and processes that innovate and allow us to create amazing collections with minimal impact on people, planet, ocean, and animals.”  

Creative trends

Bright arresting colour was a starting point, vivid tones for unconventional design with intricate pattern jacquards and 3D patterns. The orange colour group is still strong and clear colour blues actively sought after by fashion visitors, the standard for a clean, optimistic approach to fashion.  

Classic styles were also subject to renewal; houndstooth herringbone, Harris Tweed or Scottish tartans in black, white and grey, making a look combining traditional elegance with a contemporary nonchalance, seen at their most creative at Idea Biella  showcasing  knitted and woven jacketings in  larger designs, more colour and texture than in classic mode.

The mood for winter included brushed, fluffy, blurred designs in soft Merino wool, cashmere and alpaca. Viscose and mohair produced brushed soft knits, and eco yarns with long established provenance for example, at Botto Poala. Thicker, rougher blends of natural, named wool and mixes also made an appearance for more rugged looks.

The sustainability mantra is giving rise to some interesting developments as designers incorporate repurposed content and mix different fibres.  Some manmade yarns contained acrylic fibre with 50% or even 75% recycled content, while natural fibres mixed with synthetics in many collections.

Continuing research news came with Revecol by Erica described as a big step for circularity in textiles, thanks to a new generation of chemical auxiliaries, which are high-performing and obtained from vegetable exhausted cooking oil. 

MU glamour

Milano Unica is renowned for attracting buyers of all levels choosing dress fabrics and knitwear for international collections and multinational names. Trends here included glitter and glamour mixed with street influences. Trend prediction Graffiti Street by MU portrayed a random mixing of bright deep colours, purple, pinks and black scrawled in street style. Laminated yarns, sparkling yarns, ribbons and zips, scribbled hearts embroidered over a traditional suiting, flowers, ribbons and zips.

Linen, with hemp, is rapidly establishing its place as a winter fabric, often   seen undyed but with a large range of tone and weight, as a single fibre,   often partnering with wool, silk or velvet for elegant and ethically produced fabrics.

Some effects were picked out with embroidery and elements of shine and sparkle, striations, natural looking shapes, nets and sequins on cut fabrics. Colours included  pink, lilac, silver, velvet with a silver sheen. 

Very tactile shapes and additions, decorated with threads and feathery black horizontal twisted yarns, rope-like and slithering were seen for knitted versions.  Metallic shimmering sequins and rhinestone prints reigned at Sensitive Fabrics for trendy and sophisticated lingerie. 

Knitted fabrics were distributed widely among the various sectors, benefitting from high-tech developments in machinery, aiding speed, and performance; the end products proving easier to re-use, repurpose and dispose of, fitting the stated sustainable aims  of most of the participants. 

Aspects of production featured knitted elements, including Maglieria Silmar with knit edgings for necklines, cuffs etc. 

Companies indicated their eco credentials wherever possible. Biojersey organic fabrics flag up that they have dispensed with harmful chemicals, others mentioned the use of organic cotton, linen, hemp, soy, kapok, organic silk. Official labelling is increasingly evident: FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) bamboo and in particular, RWS wool.  

MU37 Visitor numbers were up by 16%, the organisers announced; foreign companies up 26% and visited 562 exhibitors. 

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