Janet Prescott reports from Paris

Gathering optimism evident since the first fabric and yarn shows was also present at Premiere Vision where there was an increase in exhibitors and where a colourful approach to design reinforced the mood of buyers looking for the new and attractive for SS 2014.

Buyers had attended in satisfactory numbers, though Chinese visitors were not as numerous because of the clash with the Chinese New Year celebrations. There was much to distinguish individual offers but also emerging overall trends. Yellows and bright pastels, blue, pink and above all white, flower colours led the field, with clean looks interpreted in bold graphics, florals and bright marine looks. There was particular interest in fine striped jerseys, chevron knits, prints and double face techno materials. Techniques of incorporating raised lines, embroidery and different gauge stitches gave a ‘worked’ look to many fabrics.

Brazil drives innovation

Brazil, home to the 2015 football world cup and the 2017 Olympics, looks to be driving a lot of innovation in the mind of the designer, with a plethora of fabrics inspired by bright fiesta-like colours; yellow, blues, reds and orange in bold stripes and contrasts, particularly evident in knitted fashion, with smooth jerseys contrasted with net co-ordinates, transparent inserts and sports-inspired constructions brought into the fashion sector.  One descriptor by PV  in a selection of beachwear and silky knit swimwear looks  said ‘some are allergic to water’ summing up the beachwear style, inspired by, but not necessarily suitable for, real active sport, which certainly found an audience with buyers at the trend sectors.

Various innovations were presented, these included Santoni’s track suit jacket made with Newlife™ by Saluzzo yarns, knitted on the MEC-MOR CMP machine in a seamless single panel, with only the zip being sewn in. 18gg thickness in the knitted fabric panel offers fabric uniformity, and it is reversible, a current trend.  Transpiration from certain areas is a feature and the jacket can be knitted in its entirety in 20 minutes.

Miroglio presented a new approach to digital printing, on all sorts of fabrics, which claims to bring it within the range of conventional printing as far as cost and quality is concerned, partnering with ink company Sensient Imaging Technology and using the superfast printer MS-Vario.

Lenzing introduced their new factory, called a Jumbo Tencel production line, to start producing in 2014, costing 130million Euros and with a capacity of 64,000 tons. Looking more like a hotel than a factory, as it was stated, it is part of a careful programme of bringing increased production into Austria and to balance the risk of fluctuating cotton prices.

Jacquards important

Jacquards were important for both wovens and knits and several French companies presented both, in blends of cotton, linen and silk. Jerseys came in sporty ensembles of complementary fabrics in athletic colourings. Deveaux SA and Stock Union’s collections featured colourful watercolour based tints and colourful designs. Some French mills’ co-ordinated designs included asymmetrical stripes with a tribal look or more nautical designs featuring mid blues and indigo. There was a complexity of stitch construction which characterised many collections.  Micro stitches were popular in jersey constructions, and jacquards tended to major on abstract patterns taken from natural themes, including flower shapes, sometimes over- printed.

Knitwear Solutions

Knitwear Solutions, the second Edition of knitted garments, popular on its debut at Premiere Vision, boasted more exhibitors, rising to 39, exhibitors came from Portugal, China, Italy, Spain and Turkey with a large range of knits from traditional summer cables to semi-sheer delicate plains. The garments chosen for display showed a creative use of knit as a canvas or an architectural shape to demonstrate stitches or constructions including intersecting lines and geometric decoration.

They number included high profile knitters such as MF1.The company knits for several big couture names, including Stella McCartney, developing exclusive lines, a method of working common to many of the exhibitors.  Mario Foroni the owner has developed special designs for haute couture, at the same time exploiting the potential of the machinery. 100% pure silk yarn for linear knitting was described as ‘industrial luxury’.  Many of the Chinese exhibitors offered a full service with flexible orders sizes. Shanzhen Meilian for instance, flatbed knitters, offered facilities including pattern cutting, knitting, sewing, dyeing and hand painting to offer a bespoke service.

The garments on show demonstrated ultrafine and macro gauges, jacquard stitches and intarsia, printed or hand painted knits, a wide variety of refined finishing and engineered motifs, including the running theme raised of geometric lines and intersecting planes on sugary coloured knits. The new silhouette is slightly oversized, knits with big shapes in both body and sleeves. Chunky sweaters in summer yarns were seen at Indigo and flimsy knits made from thinner, finer yarns for a bigger silhouette with transparent areas. Knitted linen was used extensively.

Lighter blended yarns

Throughout PV mills were using lighter blended yarns; cotton and linen, silk and cotton or viscose. Lightness of weight and colour was particularly prevalent for jerseys, many with technical finishes- stretch, UV protection. Design features centred on contrasts with natural and manmade looks with boldly synthetic effects of shine and glitter. Handles were generally dry and lightweight.

Contrasts abounded as slubs and loose knits combined with smooth surfaces and throughout there was bolder and more intricate pattern than for some time. In the main hall 5, classic sandy coloured jersey knits complemented similar wovens, in plains, checks and stripes. Lanificio Raphael showed good doubleface jerseys with plains and patterns which characterised the formal look.

Recyclyed fibres

Recycled fibre collections were available from various mills from China, A Ferreira & Filhos from Portugal, Texim Knits of Turkey and Maglificio Venezia, Italy, indicating that the market is accepting recycled materials as a particular feature.

A round table on sustainability, well attended by buyers and professionals, brought to the fore the fact that fashion in the mainstream is taking green issues forward with greater commitment to industrial processes which use less water and consume fewer resources, in many cases spurred on by chains such as Zara developing new traceability initiatives.  

We've posted lots of images from PV on our Facebook Page - follow the links below . . . 

Premiere Vision knits

Rectilinear designs with raised elements and inserted panels

Knitwear Solutions and French jerseys playing with geometrics and . . .