Invista, owners of the Lycra brand, launched what it calls a transformative patent pending technology for knitted denim fabrics at the Kingpins Denim Show in Amsterdam last week. The circular knitting technology will also be shown in New York this week. Under the platform of Lycra HYBRID technology, the fabrics are said to combine the best of both worlds – the comfort and flexibility of a knit with the authentic aesthetics and performance of a woven.

“What distinguishes this technology from existing knit denim is that the Lycra HYBRID fabrics integrate a true denim look and feel with low growth, low shrinkage and multi directional stretch,” said Jean Hegedus, Invista’s global director for denim. “Additionally, the fabrics can be engineered for use in a range of different garment types, each serving different consumer needs.”

Based on extensive trials with fit models and Invista’s proprietary wear force testing protocols, the Lycra HYBRID fabrics have been segmented into three different categories, each with unique performance levels.

Level 1 offers everyday denim fabrics that meet Invista’s standards can carry the Lycra brand; Level 2 are fabrics that meet Invista’s shaping technology standards can qualify for the Lycra BEAUTY brand; and Level 3 are fabrics that meet Invista’s athleisure standards can qualify for Lycra SPORT branding.

Introduced in woven denim last year, Lycra BEAUTY jeans help shape and sculpt a women’s body comfortably. Now that same concept is being extended into the knitted denim arena. Invista has once again employed wear force testing and body scanning to quantify the high level of comfort and shaping potential these fabrics can offer.

Previously only used in the activewear segment, the Lycra SPORT brand is now being extended into denim for use in athleisure apparel. “We’re very excited about the integration of Lycra SPORT fabrics into the denim market space,” Hegedus said. “Our testing helps identify the right level of stretch, recovery, and force to ensure comfort, freedom of movement, and performance in an active inspired garment.”

Invista began working on the new technology several years ago as they saw performance fabrics taking an increasingly important role in the denim space. The fabrics employ a specific patent pending construction to achieve the look and feel of traditional denim, but with much greater stretch and flexibility. Another unique function of the technology is that the fabric can be engineered to have the particular level of stretch you desire. “We have been able to achieve fabrics with over 100% stretch in one direction and more than 50% in the other, with less than 5% growth,” said Tianyi Liao, research fellow at Invista and inventor of the technology.

Invista worked under confidentiality agreement with several mills on this project including Advance Denim of China, Knitdigo of Taiwan, Santanderina of Spain, and Willy Hermann of Austria. Garments from each of these mills will be on display at the Kingpins Shows.

Invista will also be hosting a seminar on the technology at the Kingpins shows that will include a panel discussion by representatives of some of the mills, as well as a video featuring students who have personally tried jeans made with the new technology. “We thought it was only appropriate to have the next generation of denim designers and entrepreneurs try out what we believe will be the next generation of denim fabrics,” Hegedus said.