A pioneering new social enterprise in the UK’s largest UNESCO Biosphere has unveiled its first ever high-end, entirely British-made, sustainable knitwear range. It is believed to be the first global fashion brand to use the abundant and versatile Scottish Blackface wool for high-end clothing, and the only luxury knitwear company run as a social enterprise directing all profits into grassroots climate and sustainable development initiatives. It is hoped the initiative will help to drive sustainable farming, protect local rural heritage skills, and address the global climate crisis.

Supported by a national crowdfunding appeal led by the Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere Partnership and designed by one of the UK’s leading knit designers Jo Storie, the first ever Merrick Scottish Blackface Knitwear garments, which all hold the British Wool traceability mark, were recently released for sale during Wool Month via www.MerrickScotland.com.

Promoting slow fashion to reduce carbon emissions and increasing the value of a previously underused wool, the groundbreaking brand highlights the potential of the area’s rich rural farming heritage as part of a sustainable fashion economy. The partnership has ensured that everything is designed, made and produced in Britain. The wool is sourced from local farmers, and all profits ploughed back into the Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere Partnership to support community, heritage, education and conservation projects throughout a globally significant area of natural and cultural heritage value in southern Scotland.

Revealing the new knitwear range, Marie McNulty, Deputy Manager and Business Development lead for the Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere Partnership, said: “We are absolutely thrilled with the timeless designs that Jo Storie has created for our first ever Merrick Scottish Blackface Knitwear. It is a great privilege to work on a groundbreaking project which highlights how fashion can become a force for good. Initiatives like this are needed now more than ever, as the fashion industry releases around 1.2 billion tonnes of carbon emissions every year, with textile production contributing more to climate change than international aviation and shipping combined.”

“Our full Merrick range has been made entirely from products sourced and made in Britain, including the finest grade of wool sourced from flocks of Blackface sheep around the Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere. Over 150 farmers and shepherds across the region produce 45,000 kilos of the finest quality grade of wool annually from Scottish Blackface sheep, so it is in plentiful supply. There is enough to produce twenty thousand jumpers.”

“Each of the stylish garments are of the highest quality, comfortable and robust. Wool from Scottish Blackface sheep is incredibly hardy, so each item could last more than lifetime. Our fully fashioned design techniques mean that can also be unravelled and repurposed into something new if owners would like to do so. Should a garment ever be discarded, the wool will biodegrade. The British-made buttons are biodegradable too and all our packaging is plastic-free.”

“It is safe to say, those buying Merrick Scottish Blackface Knitwear can truly feel good, safe in the knowledge that their purchase is supporting the growth of a sustainable economy and helping to address the global climate crisis.”

Designer Jo Storie, who has worked in knitwear for 30 years, added: “It a real privilege to have been involved in the inception of Merrick Scottish Blackface Knitwear. It is unbelievable to think that Scottish Blackface yarn wasn’t used for knitting before now. It looks as good as the most luxurious knitwear brands. It is renewable, sustainable, strong and durable, so stitches and structures are clean and well defined, which opened a lot of design possibilities. The wool is also thermoregulating, insulating and naturally biodegradable, so it’s an obvious choice for clothing and outerwear.”

Reflecting the participative approach which is at the very heart of the UNESCO Biosphere model, Merrick Scottish Blackface Knitwear was developed with support from British Wool, the Scottish Blackface Sheep Breeders’ Association, and over 400 farmers, business owners, creatives, organisations, individuals and crowdfunders throughout the Biosphere region and beyond.

John Thomson, Chair of the Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere Partnership’s board of trustees, said: “We are very proud of the collaborative way in which Merrick Scottish Blackface Knitwear has been created. We have had incredible support from farmers, the fashion industry, locals who are passionate about Blackface wool heritage, and individuals who want to drive a sustainable economy. It is crucial that we all work together to find new and unprecedented ways like this to tackle some of the biggest interconnected challenges of our time.”

Haldi Kranich-Wood, Business Development Manager at British Wool said: “It is extremely exciting to see the launch of Merrick Blackface Knitwear during Wool Month. Product development and innovation of this nature is absolutely key to achieving our mission to drive sustainable demand for British wools.”

“It is also fantastic to see that Merrick is certified Traceable and adorned with the Shepherds Crook Mark logo highlighting a commitment to sourcing from UK sheep farmers and championing transparency. In an age of mass production and globalised supply chains, there is a growing appreciation for products like this that celebrate tradition, sustainability, and localism.”

Richard Colley, a local farmer and Council Member of the Scottish Blackface Sheep Breeders’ Association, said: “Merrick Scottish Blackface Knitwear, which is producing high end garments entirely and exclusively from the very best of locally sourced Blackface wool, offers a fantastic opportunity for eco-conscious and stylish consumers.”

“Scottish Blackface wool is an extremely sustainable, natural and biodegradable product with outstanding environmental credentials, produced in the most natural environment in the world.”

The team at the Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere Partnership identified the need for the new social enterprise after the value of Blackface fleece declined.

Farming of Blackface wool from one of the country’s most recognisable sheep breeds dates back at least to the 12th century in the south of Scotland, and is commemorated in museums and heritage sites nationwide, including the renowned Sanquhar Museum in the north of the UNESCO Biosphere. However, the trend for ‘fast fashion’ left the sector’s future in doubt. Once much sought after due to its versatility, in recent years the value of Blackface fleece, and its use in clothing, declined steeply, as manufacturers sourced cheap man-made fibres elsewhere. In 2021, it was valued at around £0.30 per kilo, which is around £0.60 per fleece - less than it cost to shear the sheep. By demonstrating the wool’s versatility, it is hoped Merrick Scottish Blackface Knitwear will help to make it much more valuable to producers.

Kyle Thomson (aged 30), a shepherd from the Scottish Borders, who was one of the first to try on the prototypes while modelling at a British Wool showcase said: “It is brilliant to see a product that was previously seen as little to no value being turned into comfortable high-end clothing. With its low cost and fashion industry’s reliance on manmade materials, I hadn't really considered it would ever be used for this purpose."

"When I put the jumper on, I was pleasantly surprised at how comfortable it was to wear. Even on a roasting hot day, it had great breathability. It was also a nice fit and a lovely colour. I tried on around six garments that day, and the Blackface wool jumper was definitely my favourite.”

“Not only does the wool create incredibly stylish clothes, but it has a low environmental impact due to the way blackface sheep are traditionally farmed.”

www.merrickscotland.com

www.gsabiosphere.org.uk