New design perspectives for premium lace brands
Warp Knitting/Crochet
Symmetry makes the difference
Symm-Net à la Chantilly for clothing.
3rd February 2023
Knitting Industry
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Obertshausen, Germany
With clarity and balance in mind, Karl Mayer's textile specialists developed a lace fabric last year that is characterized by an extremely precise and distinct appearance. The intricate look is created by a filigree pattern and the utmost symmetry of the design elements. Accordingly, it was named Symm-Net.
Counter-lapping pattern for more clarity
The new MJ 92/1 B multibar jacquard raschel machine is used to produce Symm-Net. Equipped with a split threaded jacquard bar, the new machine can work both equal and counter-lapped patterns, and also has two ground bars at the back operating counter-lapped to complete the symmetry.
The possibilities of this set-up were exploited in initial samples last year, where Symm-Net was launched in an elastomeric galloon targeted at lingerie. Here a counter-lapping jacquard movement combined with the two counter-lapped elastane bars created a successful symmetry. Several of machines have already been ordered to date.
Rigid Symm-net patterns with fine jacquard structures
Just in time for the start of the year, Karl Mayer pushed ahead with its Symm-Net developments. Lace expert Jamie Heather created a rigid cross-band galloon for outerwear, relying on a delicate Chantilly-style design.
"The advantages of Symm-net are particularly evident in designs with small holes and fine mesh structures," explains the expert.
Lightweight lace and in particular Chantilly stylings are now growing in demand, sums up Jamie Heather after his visit to Interfilière in Paris in January. Many manufacturers showed complex designs, clip patterns and classic Chantilly looks in new ways at the leading trade fair. Fine designs incorporating metallic yarns were especially popular.
For the new Symm-Net lace, Jamie Heather used typical Chantilly yarns - polyamide and 15% cotton for the gimps. The Lace is made as a cross band flounce on the MJ 92/1 B. This means the lace is delivered in three-metre strips and is separated by hand. "The fabrics show how symmetrical Chantilly can be, and symmetry is Symm-Net's strength," he says, explaining his design approach.
Further developments underway
The new rigid Symm-Net patterns bring pizzazz to garments such as collars, cuffs or inserts, and also attracted attention at Interfilière, Karl Mayer says. "The customers to whom I showed the lace were immediately struck by the visual clarity of the fine mesh structures," concludes Jamie Heather. Encouraged by the positive response, he is already working on further Symm-Net developments, including several clip patterns.
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