Janet Prescott reports from Paris

The trend for transparency and airy constructions reached its zenith in Knitwear Solutions, the Fourth Edition of Premiere Vision devoted to flatbed knitting. Arresting examples of quality knits in various finely spun yarns composed of wool, linen, cotton and cashmere, including synthetics with essential shine, were gathered together in the trend area in Hall 6. 

Première Vision once again collaborated with knit designer Xavier Brisoux to create specific developments for Knitwear Focus, the fashion information forum at Knitwear Solutions. The proportion of knitwear in the fashion offer has increased in recent years and it was emphasised. Knitwear represents 20% to 40% of the product offer of ready-to-wear brands. The garments were made by many of the knitters whose stands clustered around the fashion area.

The fourth edition of Knitwear Solutions introduced 20 international knitters and spinners most of whom had already exhibited in the previous three seasons - Alphatext Knitting, China; A Ferreira & Filhos Portugal; Formenti Calkmakas Konf Turkey; Wuxi Fuji Fashion Wear, China;  Fukuei Co , Japan; Gobi Corporation, Mongolia; Golden Venture Far East, Hong Kong, Nanjing Haiermansi Group, Inner Mongolia Liyali Cashmere Products and Shenzhan Meilian Clothing,  China; Montagut Industries Orfama, Portugal; Ningbo Noble Woolen Garments China,; Onteks Tekstil Turkey; Teodori Maglificio degli Angeli  and Maglificio Venezia Italy.

They unveiled their latest developments for spring summer 2015 along with the latest updating proposals for autumn winter 14/15. Among them, selected by a committee of international experts and industry professionals, were four companies choosing the PV platform for creative flatbed knitwear for the first time: knitters Fukuei (Japan), Ningbo (China) Celik Makas (Turkey), and cashmere maker Gobi Corporation (Mongolia). All work at the top quality end of the industry, some for couture and designer labels, some like Maglificio Venezia with their own labels too.

Products included fancy ribs from Nanjing Haiermansi, continuing the airy theme, cut out shapes at Ferreira, and simple elegant cashmere plain and contrasting areas from Maglificio Venezia, regular micro stitches and deceptively simple shapes at Golden Venture HK, transparent fineness at Fukuei, blocks of colour at Montagut, simple multi gauge cashmeres at Gobi.

 The fashion prototypes restricted to yellow, white and grey, gave extra impact that underlined the simple style. Lightweight blends were interpreted in simple flowing shapes, or more fancy aerated qualities and holey patterns. Openwork in regular patterns, fancy stitches and embroideries added to the light looks, while gauze-like constructions or very fine meshes gave an aethereal aspect and a feeling of luxury.

The styling centred around design features which echoed the airiness of the yarns: unexpectedly low backs, wraps, slits and holey stitches. Coupled with the transparency of many of the designs were street references; hoods were attached to some of these delicate designs, tank tops and sleeveless summer tops. Some garments were partly opaque and party see through, some seamless, some with a central seam giving an elegant structure to the garment or chain-mail stitches.

In addition to the fashion focus, an interesting exhibition of designs from the Couture and Designer archives added an extra element which attracted many designers to this area of the exhibition.  Futuristic Heritage, an installation of knitwear pieces exclusively selected for Knitwear Solutions was organised by exhibition curator Federico Poletti in collaboration with the international centre for Italian fashion documentation, Archivio Modateca Deanna, and Francesca Fornasari for the exhibition display.

‘The word heritage is now of utmost importance’ it was asserted. Examples shown explored the seduction of flowing lines with sculptural raised curves which could look like mediaeval armour, or the delicate carapace of an insect, seen in metallics or soft cream and most often in soft black, by such designers as Azzedine Alaia, Claude Montana, Marina Spadafora. The designs selected ranged from the 1950s to the recent past, underlining the importance of knitwear as a stand-alone fashion item. 

Several spinners were also chosen to exhibit in Knitwear Solutions. It was pointed out that while Europeans - particularly Bulgaria and Italy - offer cutting-edge choices in noble, natural or artificial fibres, whether single or blended, Asian exhibitors, particularly from China, are the most important source of many noble fibres including cashmere.

Premiere Vision has introduced quality knitters to round out their offer to the fashion trade, acknowledging the importance of including knitwear in the complete spectrum of yarns, fibres and fabrics on which Premiere Vision Pluriel has built its reputation.  Numbers have remained modest but steady and there were many visitors to the area.

View more images from Knitwear Solutions here